European varieties travel beyond the equator to South Africa

Fleur du Cap Pinotage (2006)
Bergkelder
Pinotage
Coastal, South Africa

Considering the different areas of the world that make up "new world" wine production, Africa might not necessarily come to mind. However, wine has been an important industry there since at least the mid 1600s. Laws regulating wine produced in a specific region were not set however until 1973, when the Wine of Origin system was introduced. Similar to other countries' controlled appellation laws, the WO requires that wines must use only grapes from one region to be labeled under the area's name. Also, an expansion of investment in the South African wine industry has been fostered by increased international exposure.

Most wine production is centered around Cape Town, with Stellenbosch and Paarl being two of the most active regions. With a climate similar to that of the Mediteranean, vineyards are exposed to hot, dry summers and cool, dry winters. This makes a perfect environment for growing many European varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay. In addition to these, South Africa is home to a grape called Pinotage, which originated as a hybrid of Pinot Noir and Cinsault, referred to as Hermitage locally. The name thus is a portmanteau of Pinot and Hermitage - similar to how Americans produce Bordeaux style blends under the term Meritage, derived from Merit and Heritage.



With qualities of both its parents, and all the warm sun, Pinotage typically produces deep, full bodied red wines that exhibit dark fruit, smoke, and earthy characteristics. However, even with it's merits, wines are frequently criticized for being harsh and out of balance regarding a prevalent acetone characteristic. Regardless, this shouldn't be a discouragement from sampling!

Appearance: Clear and ruby in color with moderate intensity. Bright in the class, this wine is anything if not truly red.

Nose: The nose is clean and steered by red fruit and floral aromas. Cherry, strawberry, and roses develop deeper into the glass and soften the oak impressions. A hint of spice, maybe nutmeg, is faint but present.

Palate: Dry wine that epitomized the word medium across the board - body, tannin, and alcohol. Tannins are gripping, but not harsh - the wines are very tannic naturally. Flavors mirror the nose and include strawberry, sweet spice, and nuts. The finish lingers with the oak most likely used in aging the wine.

Bergkelder. Edit: Bergkelder is in fact the producer, and their name refers to their cellar burrowed deep into a mountainside. The WO "Coastal" means that grapes can be sourced from many places including Paarl and Stellenbosch - even some appellations which are not so "coastal." Thank you to Peter May of The Pinotage Club for this correction. The town of Stellenbosch additionally is home to a major university and several wine-related research and teaching institutions. In addition to reds, including Cab and Shiraz (Syrah), the region's most widely planted grape is Chenin Blanc, or Steen, a white grape known in the Loire of France.

Pinotage can also be found in limited quantities from the U.S., New Zealand, and South America. Despite it's hard to tame personality it is growing in popularity and has certainly become the flagship grape of the South African wine industry. Interestingly, while most is from South Africa, only 6.7 per cent of the wines produced in country are Pinotage.

I would highly recommend this wine to those who enjoy French Pinot Noir (Burgundy) or any of the full bodied, warm climate blends that hail from southern France - after all this is where Cinsault is best known, especially in Languedoc-Roussillon. The earthy qualities paired with fruit and tannin give an overall good balance. Definitely makes a great food wine and I would pair with stews, dishes containing fruit like figs or prunes, or even cuisine that has a hint of spice.

Cheers!