a zingy down under rielsing

Marlborough Dry Rielsing (2006)
Kim Crawford
Rielsing
Marlborough, AUSTRALIA

I'm not one to pass up a bargain - especially when it comes to wine! Recently I was shopping to stock up on some white wines and found a $16 bottle marked down to $8.99! Knowing the Kim Crawford name, I'd never actually sampled any of his (yes, Kim is a man - I had assumed surely it was Cindy's less attractive wine-making sister) wines. Even though seeing mark downs like that usually indicates that a vintage is on its way out, I bought a bottle anyhow. I had no intention on laying it down for more than a few days!

This Riesling is from the Marlborough region of New Zealand, located on the southern of the two islands. Fairly new to the wine scene, vines weren't even planted in this regions until 1973 - literally a baby compared to old world Riesling from Germany. Marlborough is the largest wine growing region in New Zealand, and while renowned for Sauvignon Blanc also produces very good Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling. The south island is the warmer of the two - things are reversed on that side of the equator - and with nearly 70 wineries Marlborough is home to over 40 percent of the country's producers.

Appearance: Brilliant and clear with just a slight hint of fizz. The color is somewhere between that of fresh hay and a golden wedding band.

Nose: Boasts of minerality - the smell you might notice along a riverbed in the spring - fresh, stony, earthy. This is my no means off putting, and in fact common in Rieslings, developing more as they age. Limes cut with a freshly sharpened knife also come to mind. The aromas are by no means intensely pronounced, but they are not hard to distinguish. Softening the hard line steeliness are floral notes as well as hints of peach, lemon, apple, and pineapple.

Palate: Holding the wine on my tongue the first thing I notice is how it prickles all over including the roof of my mouth. After swallowing I start salivating due to the high acidity. The label doesn't lie - this is a dry Riesling! The body, alcohol, and flavor intensity are all leaning towards the heavier end of medium. Flavors are bright and fresh - lime, apple, and lemon. Just as with the nose there is that sense that perhaps I just stuck a small pudding stone or piece of chalk in my mouth. The acidity lingers for a long time and is incredibly refreshing.

Based on this tasting I would definitely have to say that my perception of this wine nearing it's peak is way off. With all the acidity and fullness this has it could certainly age for a while - I'm going to have to go get a couple more bottles at that price! Also, while this is excellent served on its own I'd jump at the opportunity to pair this with food - well, then again when don't I jump at a chance to eat? Fatty fish, sharp cheeses, and fruit dishes would do very well matched to this wine. I'm sure it would be an excellent compliment to sushi as well.

Rieslings are a great warm weather option, and come in a wide variety of styles. While this example is bone dry - even with 6g/L residual sugar - they can scale all the way to the sweet end of the spectrum, even into dessert wine territory. Additionally the grape is grown in many different regions around the world, each with it's own special characteristics. New Zealand, South America, and even those in the U.S. are great options especially when faced by a daunting sea of German labels. Don't let that discourage your exploration of Deutsch-Riesling though - there's a reason it's the most widely produced wine there!

Cheers!

deutsch wein ist gut mit thai essen ja

Clean Slate Riesling (2007)
Clean Slate Wines
Riesling
Mosel, GERMANY

On recommendation from Crighton, one of the friendly specialists at my local Whole Foods, I snagged a bottle of Clean Slate to pair up with some Pad Thai. Eagerly he chilled a bottle and let me sample it in the store, and I definitely knew I'd be writing about it before long. Now later in the week I've got a new bottle and some notes to share (well, I might not share the bottle...)

Appearance: Clear, pale lemon yellow with a little pétillance, or effervescence.

Nose: Clean with light to medium intensity. Youthful aromas including green apple, lemon, lime, pineapple, slate, and anise star.

Palate: An off dry wine - 2.8% residual sugar - with medium acidity, body and light alcohol. Intense fruit flavors characteristic of the variety including apple, citrus, and lime. Also some pear, orange, and floral notes finished with a soft minerality.

The very subtle sweetness this Riesling has made it a perfect pairing for my Pad Thai with a little spiciness and fresh basil and lime tossed in. However, I'd definitely recommend it to anyone who enjoys a dry Riesling - this definitely is refreshing and crisp given the lively acidity to balance it.


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The label - which would certainly appeal to any minimalist - is also notably cool. A narrow band of paper depicting a stylized (to look like slate of course!) aerial of the Mosel River makes the bottle look like it's wearing a pair of skinny legged jeans. The Mosel region, taking it's name from the river is home to some of the world's best Rieslings. Zoom out on the map above to get a better idea of how the river winds through wine country. The southern facing slopes are where the best grapes are grown.

The region used to be known as the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, but apparently that wasn't very "consumer friendly." Granted yes, most bottles of wine imported from Germany have horribly confusing labels, it'd be hard to go wrong with many of their Rieslings. "Americanizing" labels is understandably easier to market, but I have to say that as Americans (or anyone outside of a given country) we should make the effort to be a little more educated about these things. And if you can't read a label then ask for help, you might miss out on some great wines otherwise. While you're practicing your Deutsche though you can safely enjoy this wine.

Cheers!

Alsace: Blanc, Blanc, Rouge!

Blanc d'Alsace (2006)
Maison Kuentz Bas
60% Sylvaner | 15% Muscat | 15% Auxerrois | 10% Chasselas
Husseren-les-Chateaux, France

Crustacés (2007)
Dopff & Irion
Riesling
Riquewihr, France

Alsace Pinot Noir (2006)
Robert Klingenfus
Pinot Noir
Molsheim, France

Today's wines takes us to the heavily Germanic influenced region of Alsace in northeastern France. This area has changed hands between France and Germany a number of times throughout history, surely due to both wanting to claim the great wines produced there as their own! The only region in France that is permitted to use German grape varieties under the AOC system, Alsace is primarily known for white wine (90% of production) from aromatic varietals including Riesling and Gewürztraminer.

Alsace is considered to have a cooler climate and wine styles are influenced by two important geographical features: the Vosges mountain range and the Rhine River. With most of the vineyards planted on slopes between the two, the Vosges protect the vines from wind and also minimize rain fall while the Rhine encourages air flow and prevents rot from occurring. These factors result in dry sunny days which contribute to the concentrated characteristics displayed in many Alsatian wines, giving pronounced aromas and flavors and crisp, full acidity.

Blanc d'Alsace
Appearance: Clear white wine with medium color, somewhere between gold and straw. I wouldn't go so far as to call it "deep" in color, but it's almost there. Very distinct from lighter whites like Pinot Grigio.

Nose: Clean, developing in age, light oak, pronounced minerality, and unmistakable lemon or other citrus aromas. There is a slight smoky, almost greasy level to the nose - which isn't bad - and very soft pear at the top of the glass.

Palate: Holy cow! Huge acidity, mouth watering and it continues well into the finish. Dry wine with medium alcohol (12.5%), full body, and a long finish. Bursting citrus including lime or lemon but above all else grapefruit. Almost like grapefruit rind. A little oak and herbaceous characteristic, as well as the same minerality from the nose.

This was an interesting blend focused around some of the lesser known grapes found in Alsace. Sylvaner, Muscat, and Chasselas make up less than 15% of grapes grown and have declined in popularity over the years. Auxerrois is often grouped with Pinot Blanc because of their similarities and is considered to be a relative of the Chardonnay grape. Just on a whim I sampled this with some French goat cheese and it was killer. This is a definite food wine.

Crustacés
Appearance: Clear with a pale golden color. The wine shimmers brightly at the edge of the glass.

Nose: Clean and youthful with moderately intense aromas including lime, pear, apple, and tropical fruit. The nose for this wine is screaming Riesling - fresh green apple is the predominate aroma blending with some pineapple. The other aromas of pear, peach, and floral are all mostly at the top of the glass and much softer.

Palate: Zing again! Dry with moderate to high acidity - my eyes are watering a little here - full bodied wine with medium alcohol (12%) and a long finish. That granny smith continues to fight for the spotlight with an added level of lime. Acidity that has my mouth watering and cheeks twinging.

Producing mostly dry wines, Riesling in Alsace is held in the same high regard as those from Germany. Anyone who avoids Rieslings because of the undue presumption that they are all sweet definitely needs to get a bottle of this. Shrimp and steamed mussels with some lemon and lavender were wonderful paired with this.

Klingenfus Pinot Noir
Appearance: A clear, pale red wine. Color is bright and fresh looking - almost a cranberry red.

Nose: Clean with some development, moderate aromas. Lots of red fruits, including strawberry and crab apple, but mostly cherry. Very soft wafts of earthiness and a little dried fruit suggests the old-world origins and development that comes with aging.

Palate: Dry medium bodied wine with bright cranberry-esque acidity. Medium tannins noticeable on gums, medium alcohol (12.5%), with a lengthy finish. Surprisingly the first noticeable flavor was mushroom right at the front of my mouth - some of my favorite wines taste like fruit and dirt! Past this there was a lot of cranberry and cherry as with the nose. Also some hints of strawberry lingered on the finish.

The cherry flavors in this wine were more reminiscent of those tart yellow ones you can find. The combination of tart fruit and earthiness that this wine has really makes it a great example of an old-world style Pinot Noir. I enjoyed carrots and mushrooms seared in wine and butter and seasoned with French herbs with this.

Alsatian cuisine also has a strong German flair and is filled with things like pâtés and sauerkraut. Any of these wines would be an awesome accompaniment to any hearty meal as they all have enough body and acidity to stand up to bold flavors and textures. Think "concentrated" and you can't go wrong. Choosing a wine from Alsace is not as complicated as picking out a good Bordeaux given there are only a few classifications in the region. Look for any of the wines above, which are all reasonably priced (all less than $16), or ask for a recommendation and go from there.

Cheers!