Quick-Sip: Napa Turnbull Red Blend

Old Bull Red (2005)
Turnbull Wine Cellars
70% Merlot | 11% Tempranillo | 7% Petite Sirah | 5% Syrah | 4% Sangiovese | 3% Barbera
Napa Valley, California

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Fruity, food-friendly Barbera is anything but barbaric

La Famiglia Pirovano Barbera (NV)
Cantine Pirovano
Barbera
Calco, Oltrepó Pavese DOC, ITALY

Italy is incredibly diverse in terms of many things, not least of which are their wines. Produced nearly everywhere a grape can grow, including neighboring Mediterranean islands, the Italians only hold their cuisine to higher esteems. Chianti (a Tuscan stand-by) and Pinot Grigio (Italian for Pinot Gris) are well known Italian wines. Today however many other Italian names are becoming more familiar to consumers throughout the world - Barolo, Nebbiolo, even the difficult to pronounce Montepulciano - a town and a grape, neither of which have any relation.

Not to be overlooked however is Barbera, the third most planted variety after Sangiovese and Montepulciano. Finding it's home mainly in northwestern Italy, Piemonte and Lombardia, Barbera is a early-ripening, high-yield variety. The most famous wines come from the towns of Asti, Alba, and Monferrato, and like many Italian red boasts bright color and full acidity. Alo used in blending many new-world wines, Barbera has gained popularity in other parts of Europe, South Africa, South America, and California.

This particular Barbera is made from grapes grown in Calco which is located withing the Oltrepò Pavese DOC (Denominazione di origine controllata) near the city of Milan. The region is well known for making red wines which are more rustic in style than many of the other large producing locales.

Appearance: A clear, bright wine with medium intensity and a vibrant ruby color. Unlike many of the deep garnet to inky reds found in Italy, Barbera is usually lighter and trending toward more purplish-reds than brick.

Nose: The nose is clean and fruity - not overwhelmed by oak by any means.This is definitely a younger wine, despite it's lack of vintage displayed on the bottle. Fruit aromas of strawberry, cranberry, and raspberry are prevalent. Also there are very soft vegetative hints deeper in the glass, maybe fresh herbs or grass.

Palate: It is a dry wine with a medium weight - not heavy like Cabernet, but not as soft as Pinot Noir. Like many Italian wines the acidity is noticeable, but not overpowering. More about how this will work with food later. Tannins are gentle but persistent, lingering on my tongue and gums for several seconds after swallowing. Concerning flavors there are fruits consisting of cranberry, sour cherry, and blackberry. A very small amount of oak comes through on the palate, but not until late in the game.

Most of the Barbera I have tried has been blended with other grape varieties (one of my favorites being Meeker's Barberian, a $32 California blend of Barbera and Zinfandel) I really believe this well-priced pick is a quality purchase. On it's own it is easy-drinking and fruitful, but could easily be matched to a number of dishes. As mentioned earlier, Italy loves their food, and I often say that Italians only make wines to compliment their food! Examining the kinds of wines produced you'll find that nearly every type has something to eat with it.

Reds in particular are very well suited to the abundance of tomato-based dishes and sauces found all over the country. Foods with higher acidity pair well with wines of similar characteristic. While I wouldn't put the Pirovano up against a Tuscan Sangiovese, it delivered a lingering level of acid on the palate. It would pair nicely with any dish topped in a quick tomato sauce, tomato-based stews (Minestrone?), and especially roasted meats such as veal or mutton. Don't shy from trying these wines with hard cured Italian cheeses either.

Italy is too large to conquer in a week, a month, or even a year. Sure, Caesar perhaps made it look easy, but see where ambition got him? My advice is to taste your way through the country choosing from a multitude of wines and foods, letting your bravery help you try new and sometimes unpronounceable things. Try this and other Barbera-based wines, or find something you've never heard of. There will always be plenty to choose from.

Cheers!