wine that makes you lisp

Baltos (2005)
Dominio de Tares
Mencía
Bierzo Alto

The first time I tried Baltos was at La Cave du Vin in Cleveland Heights. I was out with some friends, and asked the bartender there for something "different." He had just gotten a shipment in by accident, but decided to use it until it was gone. The glass he returned with struck me with a plethora of fruity aromas, but intrigued me with an undertone of what I can only best describe as being barn-yardy or mousy. Always interested in exploring wines that might not be seen as widely popular, I relieved our host of two bottles before leaving.

I thought it appropriate that my debut post should concern this seldom heard of grape. Mencía, whose name lends itself wonderfully to the charming Castilian lispy resonances - men-thee-ah - is a red grape variety found predominantly in Bierzo, a subregion of the province of León in north west Spain. It was once believed to be Cabernet Franc, and has also been compared to Pinot Noir with its juxtaposition of fruit and animal characteristics.

Appearance: My glass of Baltos exhibited a very purplish ruby color, and was clear with medium intensity - I could still read text on a page through it, but just barely. There was also a great deal of staining on the legs.

Nose: Clean nose with moderate intensity, and different levels of aromas. Red fruit, including red cherry, raspberry; Vegetal including mushroom, mint, and spice; Also leather, earth, and the aforementioned barn-yard/mousiness.

Palate: Dry medium bodied wine. Bright sour cherry acidity, and softly lingering tannins. Other flavors included bitter almond, licorice, and dried fruits. The fruit falls a little short on the finish, but does not seem faulty.

Dominio de Tares indicates on their website that the primary vineyard for the grapes used is located in Valtuille de Abajo. Consulting a map, I realize I probably walked right past this town between Cacabelos and Villafranca de Bierzo during my Camino de Santiago in 2007.


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I do find this wine to be extremely interesting, and would recommend it to anyone looking to try an obscure old-world red. I've not had much luck finding other Mencía-based wines, though I know there is at least one available in my area at our local Whole Foods. I don't recall that its quality was as good as the Baltos, but I will definitely have to give it a second go. I think Spanish wines are really worth exploring, especially after spending some time there myself. Sure, you'll try 18 dozen Tempranillos, but now and then you'll find a grape to write home about.

Cheers!