Boutique winery produces saintly vintages

Turning down the drive to St. Joseph Vineyard in Thompson, you might think you've mistakenly intruded on some one's private residence. In fact, while not intruding, the cozy tasting room for this boutique winery is located behind the home of owners Art and Doreen Pietrzyk. Follow the gravel drive all the way to the back and you'll be rewarded with some amazing wines.

Art and Doreen, an engineer and accountant by trade respectively, opened their doors to the public in 1997, ten years after purchasing and tending to their private vineyard. The Pietrzyk's take great pride in their product and have put many years into developing the necessary skills and technique to craft their estate-grown wines. Having worked for a local wine producer, taking courses at Ohio State University, and conducting extensive research the couple were encouraged to start their business.

Our visit to St. Joseph was on a busy, sunny Saturday afternoon, but even amidst all the bustling Doreen was happy to take the time to speak with me about the wines. Christina, the wife of one of the winemakers, helped with our samples and provided helpful insight on the individual varietals and styles. The personal attention for every visitor who came through while we were there really spoke to their passion for wine and sharing it with others. Though St. Joseph's facility is not as large as some of the other well-known area wineries, there is a strong sense of welcome, and the added attention to the wines definitely shows through.

Currently with sixteen wines (8 whites, 6 reds, and 2 dessert wines) there is a wide range of options to choose from. Quantities of some bottles are limited, so if there's something you absolutely love I'd recommend getting it - last year I really enjoyed the Gewurztraminer, but now it is out of stock. From the full tasting, here are several of my favorites:

2006 Sauvignon Blanc: aromatic with fruit and floral notes; dry white with good acidity and soft flavors of citrus and fresh herbs.

2006 Chardonnay: oak and yellow apple on the nose; full bodied white with lime notes and refreshing acidity.

2007 Riesling: tropical fruit and apple aromas; crisp and tart green apple, pineapple, and lemon, just a touch of residual sugar.

Other white wines: Fumé Blanc, Chardonnay ('07), Viognier, Pinot Grigio, and Vidal Blanc

2007 Reserve Pinot Noir: old-world with olive, black cherry, and earth in the nose; soft oak, cherry, and smoke with gentle tannin and lively acidity.

St. Joseph Noir (12+1): proprietary blend, light oak and fruit on the nose; flavors of raisin, plum, chocolate, and spice. Sourced from newly acquired Pinot Vista vineyard.

St. Joseph Noir (Sangiovese): spicy nose combining black pepper with red fruit; long lasting acidity, good tannin structure, red fruit and spice on the palate.

Other red wines: Pinot Noir Select ('07), Shiraz, and Merlot

Vidal Blanc Ice Wine: honeysuckle aromas with citrus; flavors of bergamot orange and honey with a pleasant acid level.

Cabernet Franc Ice Wine: A unique wine well-made in the area; aromas of dried fruit; raisin, prune, tart cherry, and citrus.

Every wine produced at St. Joseph shows a well-based knowledge of wine making and also merits the pride that Art and Doreen take in their work. With many inspirations from old world France and Italy the end-product takes advantage of the Grand River Valley's unique micro-climate. Both agree that "good wine starts in the vineyard," which is why they put so much time and effort into their vines. You can always taste good quality.

Doreen encourages visitors to "come out and see the vineyards and taste the quality of wine we're producing." As for Ohio wine she insists that the "quality has improved one hindered per cent" over the years, and new wine-lovers or those who may have dismissed Ohio wines in the past alike will hopefully be surprised. St. Joseph in particular is beginning to experiment with other Italian varietals which should prove for exciting wines given their already very good Sangiovese.

St. Joseph Vineyard is located at 6060 Madison Road (SR 528), Thompson, Ohio 44086. You can contact the winery by phone at (440) 298-3709 or via their website, saintjosephvineyard.com. Tasting room hours are Friday from 5-7pm and Saturday 1-7pm, or at other times by appointment.

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