Creamy Columbia Chardonnay

Chateau Ste. Michelle Chardonnay (2007)
Chateau Ste. Michelle
Chardonnay
Columbia Valley (Wash.)

I might be slightly biased towards this wine, because I am absolutely head over heels in love with this winery. I have never picked up a bottle of CSM that I didn't adore. Both flavorful and aromatic wines, everything from their line that I have samples is very approachable. I immediately recommend their Gewurtz and Riesling to people who like fruit-driven but crisp whites. See previous review for a perfect summer wine. And a recent bottle of their Cabernet Sauvignon made my toes tingle with delight.

I was browsing American whites at Whole Foods, and found myself looking at Chardonnay. I don't know what it's been with me and Chard lately, but I've been drinking a lot of it. I think I'm trying to subtly force everyone to like them! I get why people are down on Chard, but really there are so many good ones out there that no one has given a second thought to. Really, go out and find one you like. Consider it a little secret that you don't have to tell anyone about.

So, without further pomp, here are my notes - I tried to keep the raving to a minimum - on this particular bottle:

Appearance: Clear with a medium lemon yellow color. Probably one of the more yellow hued wines I've seen a while.

Nose: Clean, medium intensity, youthful but developing. This wine is only 2 years old but it has some great development from the oak and sur lie aging. Buttery - like movie popcorn or butter cookies - yellow apple, soft citrus, flan, crème brûlée, caramel, vanilla, and white blossoms.

Palate: Yum! Dry, full bodied wine. Medium acidity, alcohol, and flavor intensity. The length goes for a long time. Mellow citrus, stone fruit like peaches, smooth oak integration, buttery, biscuit (malolactic), melon, kiwi, vanilla, and almond.

Complex, dry, soft acidity, full body. This is by no means overpowered with oak, but has just enough to make a powerful statement with many a meal. Pair this wine with creamy cheese (brie, camembert), cream based soups, lentils, any kind of dish based on a creamy or buttery sauce. And pastry. Good lord drink this wine with buttery pastries with just a little fruit.

Now I'll admit, whilst I'm nuts over the winery, I still kind of like the Blue Fin I had last time a little better. The oak integration of this bottle, and the wonderful layers of complexity from the sur lie aging are fabulous, but I like a touch more acidity. Lower acid wines don't have the perception of feeling as refreshing. Consider the difference between drinking a glass of whole milk versus a glass of ice water on a hot, muggy day.

Just drink some Chardonnay, dammit! You'll be better off having done so.

Cheers!

Blue Fin special in aisle 2

Blue Fin California Chardonnay (2008)
Blue Fin Winery
Chardonnay
Napa, California

Today while picking up some lunch items at Trader Joe's, I decided to check out a couple of their current wine specials. The store, well-known for Two Buck Chuck - now faniced up under the Charles Shaw name and priced at $3.49 a bottle - commonly stocks new products at great prices which are only available for short periods. A current special are a couple wines from Blue Fin Winery, priced very reasonably at only $4.99 a bottle.

Both a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were displayed, so I grabbed a bottle of each. Even if they weren't any good I figured I'd only be out $10 - not a bad deal. I chilled the Chard and had some dinner before sitting down to sample each. Here are my notes.

Appearance: Clear, pale, light golden yellow in color.

Nose: Clean, with youthful aromas. Just shy of medium intensity, fruit balanced well with oak. Yellow apple, lemon, melon, nectarine, and stone fruit. Buttery and biscuit notes soften the citrus.

Palate: Dry with medium acidity that sneaks up on the finish, peaking sharply, but then smoothing out. Very slight tannin from oak, medium alcohol, and slightly fuller than medium bodied. Flavors include citrus, pear, apple, and stone fruit. Smooth body and grapefruit and butter on the finish.

I am not a fan of California-style Chardonnays - I definitely prefer my whites to have little if no influence of oak, and to express more of their fruit.

I have to say though that the Blue Fin was quite enjoyable. The oak was definitely present, but was very nice balanced with the fruit characteristics. I was also surprised by the acidity that sneaks up on the back-end - surprised, but pleased. The body of the wine was full enough to pair well with food, but I'm perfectly happy sipping this wine on its own. Sure there might be other more interesting white grapes being made into wine, but you really can't replace a well-made Chardonnay.

Blue Fin California Pinot Noir (2008)
Blue Fin Winery
Chardonnay
Napa, Pinot Noir

Appearance: Clear and bright, not pale but very light - text is clearly visible. The color is intensely purple to ruby red.

Nose: Clean and youthful, but very muted. Fruit dominated - despite it's softness - with cranberry, cherry, strawberry, and raspberry. Very light hints of oak with some vanilla and spice.

Palate: Dry with moderate acidity. Light in body and tannin. Flavors are similar to the nose, and a little bland. Cedar, cherry, and apple. There is no presence of earth or intense fruit. Drinkable but not interesting.

Quite a disappointment after enjoying the Chardonnay. The simplicity of this bottle makes it palatable, but I don't really care for it. My marker for American Pinot Noir is always the presence of intense fruit. European PN (Burgundy in particular) is more characeristic of vegetal, mushroom, and earthy tones. I enjoy both, mood depending, but the Blue Fin sadly fell short.

Overall enjoying one of two wines at such low prices I don't see as such a bad thing. I would have loved having 2 for 2, but you can't have everything, right? Unfortunately there's not much information on Blue Fin available online - that Google seems to be able to uncover - so I don't have a website to check. I do believe that Trader Joe's carries a couple of their other wines - at very slightly higher prices. If there's a store near you I'd recommend checking any of them out. You might find a great deal!

Cheers!

Fruity, food-friendly Barbera is anything but barbaric

La Famiglia Pirovano Barbera (NV)
Cantine Pirovano
Barbera
Calco, Oltrepó Pavese DOC, ITALY

Italy is incredibly diverse in terms of many things, not least of which are their wines. Produced nearly everywhere a grape can grow, including neighboring Mediterranean islands, the Italians only hold their cuisine to higher esteems. Chianti (a Tuscan stand-by) and Pinot Grigio (Italian for Pinot Gris) are well known Italian wines. Today however many other Italian names are becoming more familiar to consumers throughout the world - Barolo, Nebbiolo, even the difficult to pronounce Montepulciano - a town and a grape, neither of which have any relation.

Not to be overlooked however is Barbera, the third most planted variety after Sangiovese and Montepulciano. Finding it's home mainly in northwestern Italy, Piemonte and Lombardia, Barbera is a early-ripening, high-yield variety. The most famous wines come from the towns of Asti, Alba, and Monferrato, and like many Italian red boasts bright color and full acidity. Alo used in blending many new-world wines, Barbera has gained popularity in other parts of Europe, South Africa, South America, and California.

This particular Barbera is made from grapes grown in Calco which is located withing the Oltrepò Pavese DOC (Denominazione di origine controllata) near the city of Milan. The region is well known for making red wines which are more rustic in style than many of the other large producing locales.

Appearance: A clear, bright wine with medium intensity and a vibrant ruby color. Unlike many of the deep garnet to inky reds found in Italy, Barbera is usually lighter and trending toward more purplish-reds than brick.

Nose: The nose is clean and fruity - not overwhelmed by oak by any means.This is definitely a younger wine, despite it's lack of vintage displayed on the bottle. Fruit aromas of strawberry, cranberry, and raspberry are prevalent. Also there are very soft vegetative hints deeper in the glass, maybe fresh herbs or grass.

Palate: It is a dry wine with a medium weight - not heavy like Cabernet, but not as soft as Pinot Noir. Like many Italian wines the acidity is noticeable, but not overpowering. More about how this will work with food later. Tannins are gentle but persistent, lingering on my tongue and gums for several seconds after swallowing. Concerning flavors there are fruits consisting of cranberry, sour cherry, and blackberry. A very small amount of oak comes through on the palate, but not until late in the game.

Most of the Barbera I have tried has been blended with other grape varieties (one of my favorites being Meeker's Barberian, a $32 California blend of Barbera and Zinfandel) I really believe this well-priced pick is a quality purchase. On it's own it is easy-drinking and fruitful, but could easily be matched to a number of dishes. As mentioned earlier, Italy loves their food, and I often say that Italians only make wines to compliment their food! Examining the kinds of wines produced you'll find that nearly every type has something to eat with it.

Reds in particular are very well suited to the abundance of tomato-based dishes and sauces found all over the country. Foods with higher acidity pair well with wines of similar characteristic. While I wouldn't put the Pirovano up against a Tuscan Sangiovese, it delivered a lingering level of acid on the palate. It would pair nicely with any dish topped in a quick tomato sauce, tomato-based stews (Minestrone?), and especially roasted meats such as veal or mutton. Don't shy from trying these wines with hard cured Italian cheeses either.

Italy is too large to conquer in a week, a month, or even a year. Sure, Caesar perhaps made it look easy, but see where ambition got him? My advice is to taste your way through the country choosing from a multitude of wines and foods, letting your bravery help you try new and sometimes unpronounceable things. Try this and other Barbera-based wines, or find something you've never heard of. There will always be plenty to choose from.

Cheers!