Monday, January 26, 2009

Napa: No Chard, No Cab, No Problem

Napa Valley, California is world renown for their full bodied Cabernet Sauvignon and massively oaked Chardonnay. Varying from every part of the region, both make excellent wines to pair with food. In an attempt to bust out of the expected repertoire of sunny Napa, the team at Whole Foods Cedar Center's Osteria put together a fantastic dinner pairing nouveau American cuisine with unusual Napa wines.
Schramsburg, Mariabelle Brut NV ($25.99)
Proscuitto, arugula, pistachio, green apple & Laura Chenel chèvre
Pale golden yellow sparkling wine. Moderate aromas of apple, citrus, pear, and minerality. Dry, medium body with lively acidity and flavors of apple and lemon with full mousse. Great to pair with creamy cheeses, salty meats, and savory olive oil.
Stag's Leap Viognier 2006 ($26.99)
Braised radicchio, morels & sea scallops with apple-bacon vinaigrette
Pale, golden, clear wine. Light, youthful aromas of citrus, apple, and floral. Dry with smooth acidity and soft flavors of oak and lime, slightly balmy. Bland light wine accentuated very well by bitter greens and vinaigrette.
St. Supéry Virtu, White Meritage ($29.99)
Thyme crusted cod, cranberry, bean & squash ragoût, rapini, preserved lemon aiolo
Pale yellow wine. Moderately aromatic aromas of oak, yellow apple, and orange blossom. Dry, medium body, smooth acidity and flavor of oak, butter, and citrus. Characteristics bursting through when paired with lemon, herbs, and high acid fruits.
Domaine Chandon Pinot Meunier 2006 ($32.49)
Poulet ballentine, sourdough, sage, currant & apple with caramelized brussel sprouts & pan jus
Pale garnet red wine - similar to Pinot Noir. Moderate, youthful aromas of cherry earth, strawberry, orange, and licorice. Dry with crisp, lively acidity, soft tannins, and flavors of cherry and currant. Balanced well with roasted foods and vegetables.
Kuleto Sangiovese 2004 ($32.49)
Slow braised oxtail, root vegetable & pork belly hash, mushroom bordelaise
Deep, ruby red wine. Developing, moderate aromas of mushroom, earth, herbs, oak, and dried fruit. Dry, full bodied wine with high acidity and medium tannin. Flavors of oak, black fruit, and game. Braised meats and root vegetables softened tannin and bolstered fruit.
Robert Pecota Muscat Canelli 2005 ($19.99)
Fromage trio: Cypress Grove Humboldt Fog and reduced grapes, walnut, honey; Pt. Reyes Blue and cardamom poached pear, moscato sauce; Vella Dry Jack and fig & marsala preserves
Medium green-gold wine with noticeable viscosity. Fully aromatic with some age, peach, pear, straw, floral, honey, and olive characteristics. Sweet, medium bodied, with powerful flavors of apple, peach, pear, honey, and floral. Fantastic contrast to salty and tangy flavors of bleu cheese, and compliment to fruit.

Overall another awesome Counter Culture wine dinner! Since I'm a vegetarian I wasn't able to have all of the meat-laden dishes listed above, but the Osteria's Chef Eric did an incredible job of making substitutions to my courses. Next month they'll be featuring Cajun food paired with different beers in celebration of Mardis Gras, so if you're local you should certainly check it out.

Cheers!

Friday, January 23, 2009

perfect pairings: wine + food demystified

Wine is by far one of my favorite things ever. Food is definitely a close second! This means that I'm head over heels about trying wines and foods together to see what tastes good and what doesn't. Some pairings can be way off, but when you do find that perfect match it's sheer bliss. To try and alleviate some of the guess-work involved in wine and food pairing I did a bit of digging and asking around to get some ideas. Here's the best of the best.
Sauvignon Blanc and Chèvre
Starting your meal with a creamy goat cheese? A match made in heaven (read: France) is pouring a crisp, and citrusy Sauvignon Blanc with it. The saltiness and creaminess of the cheese is sliced with ease by the sharp acidity found in these wines that display characteristics of lemon and grapefruit. This refreshes the palate and leaves you yearning for that next bite.

Viognier and Citrus
Toss your salad with a zingy ginger and orange based dressing and it’ll be lend itself superbly to a glass of Viognier, with its pronounced floral aromas. The acidity in both the dressing and the wine will compliment one another and make eating your greens something you’ll look forward to.

Red Bordeaux and Pepper Rubbed Fillet

Everyone relies on “red with red, white with white” when pairing wines and meat. While I advocate concentrating more on body and flavors, a tried and true pairing is steak with red wine. In particular Bordeaux wines offering Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot driven blends are full bodied, tannic, and bold enough to compliment a juicy, well seasoned cut of beef.

Gewürztraminer and Spicy Food
Whether your take-out is Thai, Mexican, or Szechuan any dish that boasts spicy heat can be successfully paired with a fruity and floral Gewürz. With just a hint of residual sugar, this wine will soften and soothe any tongue-searing you get after accidentally chomping down on that fiery Serrano.

Zinfandel and Dark Chocolate
For dessert don’t automatically turn to sweet wines–especially if dark chocolate is involved. A full bodied, dry Zinfandel offers a fruity contrast to the richness of chocolate. Flourless chocolate cake–one of those ones with “Death by…” in the name–seems even more luscious when savored with the jammy, brambly fruit found in many of these California reds.

Brachetto d’Aqui and Cheesecake
Leaning towards a sweeter wine for your after-dinner treat? Try a New York style cheesecake with this fruity Italian sparkler. The wine will compliment the rich creamy component of this dessert, and will help to cleanse your palate between bites. Top with some fresh berries for an even better match.

Port and Bleu Cheese
Port is commonly served after dinner, and can have a range from nutty to lusciously sweet characteristics. Not commonly do people think to serve cheese with a little Port after a meal, not to mention a pungent one like bleu cheese. Surprisingly though the dried fruit flavors, higher concentration of alcohol, and varying sweetness of Port pairs well with the saltiness and tangy flavors of many smelly cheeses. Port is great with chocolate, but try something new with a Danish bleu.

Sparkling Wine and Potato Chips
My friend Maggie is on a mission to get everyone drinking sparkling wine every day for any occasion. This may be the perfect excuse. Salty foods, like potato chips, are well fit with sparkling wines, especially those with more fruity characteristics or even a slight sweetness. Try Spanish Cava, German Sekt, or Italian Moscato d’Asti with these crispy snacks.
With all these you could put together an entire meal of successful pairings, or try one or two out at your next party. Either way these are definitely enjoyable. Remember, regardless as to any rules it’s always important to drink what you prefer. If you love white wine and steak then have it, don’t limit yourself. With that said, here are some general tips to keep in mind when experimenting with your own pairings:
  • Pair high acid wines with high acid foods
  • Make sure the sweetness of your wine is higher than the sweetness of desserts
  • Pair sweet wines with spicy foods
  • High tannin is best matched with higher fat or high protein dishes or bitter foods
  • Wines with high acid are refreshing with saltier foods
  • Don’t pair spiciness with higher alcohol wines
  • Consider the “weight” of the food and match a similar wine
Cheers!

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

life's not just any cabernet

California Cabernet Sauvignon (2006)
Bogle Vineyards
Cabernet Sauvignon
Graton, CA

Isle St. George Cabernet Franc (2006)
Firelands Winery
Cabernet Franc
Isle St. George AVA (Lake Erie)
For people who like red wines, the most common request we have at the winery is for Cabernet. I’ve come to understand that people mean Cabernet Sauvignon, and have rarely, if ever, considered the lonely parent of the California great - Cabernet Franc. Scientists have determined that through a natural coincidence Cabernet Franc crossed with Sauvignon Blanc to result in what we know today as Cabernet Sauvignon. Given the relationship between these two wines you might expect that any Cabernet will do, but in fact each has its own unique profile, and appeals to widely different palates. Today we’ll take a look at both in order to better understand their individual attraction.
Firelands Winery 2006 Isle St. George Cabernet Franc
Appearance: Clear, ruby red in color which is light enough to easily read text through.

Nose: Clean and aromatic. Stand-by green bell pepper with softer earthy notes and fruit including raspberry and blackberry. Oak, leaves, mushroom, and tobacco.

Palate: Dry with medium body, acidity, and tannin. Sticky but doesn't linger too much into the finish. Spicy on the palate with pepper, some oak, sour cherry, cedar, and raspberry.
Cabernet Franc is a red grape variety that is early to ripen compared with other varieties. In addition to this it tends to do very well in cooler climates – including Northern Ohio and other areas around the Great Lakes! Being lighter in body, acidity, and tannin but more aromatic, Cab Franc has long been an important component of the renowned blends from Bordeaux, France. The other two grapes most commonly found in these are Merlot and Cab Sauvignon.
Bogle Vineyards 2006 California Cabernet Sauvignon
Appearance: Also clear with a ruby red color, but deeper in intensity - text is visible bot not clearly legible.

Nose: Clean and pronounced - oak (dill, American Oak?), cherry, currant, blackberry, with some spice. I strongly associate the nose on this Cab with California.

Palate: Dry with really grippy tannins, full bodied, and quite a bit of acidity. Oak and fruit dominate the palate, but more like cooked fruit or jams. Currant, cherry, and blackberry. Also a hint of licorice and a lot of chocolate on the long finish.
Cabernet Sauvignon unlike Cab Franc, is a later ripening variety. Weather and climate permitting, this means the fruit requires a lot more time on the vine and more sunlight. Thus it grows very well in places like California, South America, and Australia which all offer longer growing seasons and lots of sun. Again considering Bordeaux blends, Cab Sauvignon is used to beef up the body, tannin, and fruit characteristics

Given these two examples there are some similarities certainly between each wine. More importantly it should be noted that both varieties are excellent to pair with foods, and so make great dinner wines. And if you enjoy dark chocolate I would highly suggest having some with either Cabernet. Overall Cab Franc appeals to people who enjoy dry wines that are lighter in body and not over the top fruity like some Cab Sauvignons can be. For those who really love “fruit bombs” as they are called or who want a fuller bodied wine Cabernet Sauvignon is just the thing.

Having a cooler climate in northern Ohio, our wineries will produce mostly Cabernet Franc - some even have Cab Franc ice wine which is divine – and they are all worth trying. Cabernet Sauvignon grown here will have more herbaceous characteristics. As a fun idea get some friends together with Cabernets from different areas and taste them together to compare and contrast. Just remember that not all Cabernets are created equal, but it never hurts to try something different – you might find a new favorite.

Cheers!

Monday, January 12, 2009

monthly wine tastings

Just another event update. I will be presenting a series of themed wine tastings at Grand River Cellars over the next few months. We have scheduled January through April and are expecting these to be a lot of fun. Please check them out if you're able to.
WHAT: Exploring the World of Wine

Each tasting will be a chance to taste 5 wines from around the world. I will be selecting these from a number of different regions and countries. All will be available exclusively at each event. Additionally we will provide a spread of gourmet appetizers and small plates to pair with the wines.

  • Janaury 29th - Cool Climate Reds

  • February 26th - Fruity Whites

  • March 26th - Merlot "Madness"

  • April 23rd - Blends: How many grapes are in there?


  • WHEN: 6:30-8:30pm
    WHERE: Grand River Cellars (440.298.9838)
    COST: $15 per tasting or $50 for all four


    View Larger Map

    Please call the winery or e-mail grcinfo@grandrivercellars.com. Advanced registration is required.

    Cheers!

    local wine & food event

    Hi everyone,

    If you're local to the Cleveland area (or visiting for some reason!) be sure to check out this new weekly event at Whole Foods Market!

    WHAT: 5x7 Food & Wine Tasting
    WHEN: Every Friday – Beginning January 16th, 5:00-7:00 p.m.
    WHERE: Whole Foods Market Cedar Center (phone: 216.932.3918)
    COST: $5 cover – no advance registration necessary


    View Larger Map

    FIVE world-class beers or wines
    FIVE sensational sampling stations
    FIVE dollars

    Guests of this event will delight upon a world-class weekly spread of five wine, beer, and food pairings. Guests will also take home a complimentary reusable wine glass, good for discount admission on a later date.

    A complete listing of January’s events and other cooking class descriptions can be found online at http://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/stores/cleveland/storecalendar.php.

    Cheers!

    Friday, January 2, 2009

    Wine tasting & fun in chilly Massachusetts

    Furnace Brook Winery
    Location: Richmond, MA
    Owner: John Vittori
    Currently I'm trekking through the cold and snowy landscapes of western Massachusetts with my friends Lindsay and Danielle in what is known as the Berkshires. We've been looking at bed & breakfasts for their March wedding, and having spent the entirety of Thursday with that I decided that today we needed some wine! From our "base" in Pittsfield, MA we drove about 10 miles to visit Furnace Brook Winery and Hilltop Orchards.


    Owner, John Vittori, welcomed us into Furnace Brook's tasting room located on the orchard property. With all the drifting snow outside we hastily rushed inside only to find that the furnace had blown. John was busy building a roaring fire in another area of the building but was more than happy to help us warm up with a few tastings. Furnace Brook began producing hard cider with Johnny Mash Hard Cider being their flagship brand.

    Armed with Danielle's "good" pen and a tasting card I was ready to take notes on everything Furnace Brook had to offer. Lindsay joked that that little card "never stood a chance." Here's a brief overview of my tasting notes:
  • Chardonnay Special Reserve - Softly oaked and full bodied this wine offered mild acidity and soft finish. Citrus and apple balance the oak flavors.
  • Charval- A blend of Seyval Blanc (60%) and Chardonnay (40%) this wine was softer than the Chardonnay. A little more citrus/apple fruit and lighter oak for more of a medium body.
  • Dry Riesling - Even with 1.3% residual sugar (RS) this is certainly a dry wine. Aromas and flavors of peach, apple, and lime the moderate acidity would pair well with food. My favorite white.
  • Johannisberg Riesling - With 2.7% RS, this wine boasts a lot of the same fruitiness of the Dry style but with more noticeable sweetness and an added element of tropical pineapple.
  • Merlot Special Reserve - Medium bodied dry wine with soft tanning and cinnamon and blackberry notes. Soft oak and red fruit on the finish.
  • Cabernet Sauvignon Special Reserve - Full bodied dry red wine with spice and blackberry, higher tannin levels and moderate acidity would make this a great food wine.
  • Shiraz Special Reserve - Chocolate, cherry, and spice! Full bodied, juicy, fruit-forward wine with smooth notes of chocolate and coffee compliment the palate and leave a long lingering finish. My pick of the reds.
  • Sparkling Blanc de Blancs - A fun dry sparkling wine with medium acidity and crisp apple characteristics.
  • Sparkling Muscato - Apple, peach, apricot, and pineapple made this wine a lusciously sweet after-dinner treat.
  • "Bee My Honey" Mead - Made from honey this had interesting herbaceous qualities with a lot of floral aromas. Sweet and fruity, but not overbearing.
  • Johnny Mash Hard Cider - light with mild acidity. Fresh fruit juice is added after fermentation to give the cider an additional sweet and fruity profile.
  • Furnace Brook's complete wine list
    While John helped some other patrons who had come to snowshoe around the property, I had an opportunity to speak with Rob Todd one of Furnace Brook's winemakers. Rob has a background in brewing beer and came from a local brewery to lend his experience to Furnace Brook. He explained that while beer making can have more complexities - where as wine is made from grapes, beer can be brewed by any number of materials - the physical process isn't anywhere as involved or complex as that of winemaking.

    We really enjoyed our visit to Furnace Brook Winery, and it was fun to try wines made in Massachusetts - had you asked me I would have never suspected to find any in the first place given all the snow! I should also say that John owns a really cool B&B in nearby Lenox, MA called the Garden Gables Inn. This was one of the locations we visited on Thursday, and given the utter charm of the village it is one of the top locations Lindsay and Danielle are considering for their ceremony in March. Managed by Brande and her husband Dan (check out their blog!), an enthusiastic young couple, this place was really knock out and would be a definite must for anyone visiting the area. Cozy rooms, beautiful grounds, and common areas filled with a sense of utter relaxation are just some of the inn's best features. They are also working on becoming a green B&B which is really great.

    Regardless as to the inn though Lindsay and Danielle have already decided on local Alta Restaurant & Wine Bar for the post-ceremonial dinner. Being the only place open on New Years day we had an amazing lunch there. A foodie-friendly menu, reasonable prices, and a formidable wine selection made them a perfect choice. I sampled some great red wines - Garnacha, Syrah, and Malbec - along with a savory veggie panini.

    Our trip continues before we head home on Sunday. Snow or not I'm definitely having a great time in this beautiful state and would highly recommend making a detour if you're passing by. There are countless things to do whatever your tastes, and you can even come when it's not snowing!

    Cheers!