A welcome infestation of beer-loving rodents

Next time you're out visiting the Grand River Valley wine region in NE Ohio, you'd be remiss to pass up an opportunity to explore some locally made beers as well. Cellar Rats Brewery, located within Debonné Vineyards, is fairly new on the micro-brew scene, however brings together a team with years of experience. Active trio Brian Burns (assistant wine maker & brewer), Tony Debevc (the younger), and Ed Trebets (chemist and wine maker) have been brewing small batches of brew since 2008.

Making batches in ninety-five gallon lots and having limited storage space you could definitely consider this operation a "boutique" outfit - nothing is bottled, but you can get a growler to go at the beer tasting room inside the winery. This limited quantity production simply means you'll get to try more unique creations on a regular basis.

While at first thought the idea of rodents might be a turn off where drinks are concerned, it's important to know that "cellar rat" is a benevolent nickname bestowed to those who spend a lot of time working on the operation end of a winery. The beers are also named with witty, mousy names - but don't let that slow you from sipping them! On a recent visit I sampled four of the current beers on tap which offered a broad range of styles and flavors.

Rat Trap Lager: American lager; golden orange color with a very slight haziness, light head; citrus, vanilla, spice, ginger, caramel, and butter aromas; creamy and smooth on the palate with slight bitterness; flavors of yellow apple, yeast, and citrus; soft finish.

Rat Tail Ale: American pale ale; golden brown color, almost clear, with soft head; aromas of juniper, citrus, herbs (coriander), lemon, and grapefruit; no bitterness on the palate, very approachable and fruity - citrus peel, grapefruit, and herbs.

Field Rat Wheat: Belgian-like wit beer; golden yellow, light head, unfiltered and hazy in the glass; tropical aromas, banana, orange, yellow apple, dried flowers; in the mouth this beer was light with soft bitterness, slight sweetness and flavors or baking spice, apricot, banana, and honey.

InFESTation: Malt style beer; like burnt sugar in color, clear with a light head; nose showing caramel, coffee, chocolate, and toffee; flavors closely mimic the nose adding spiciness and a lingering sense of chocolate covered espresso beans; rich with a long finish.

As the beers here are constantly changing, be sure to make a regular stop in to check out what's new. Some previous offerings have included Porter, Stout, and oak-aged ale, and Oktoberfest. With Burns' 18 years of brewing experience this small scale venture has definitely got a lot to offer, and will hopefully expand your palate and appreciation for quality micro-brews. For questions call (440) 466-3485 and visit the tasting room at 7743 Doty Road, Madison, Ohio 44057. A website will be coming soon at www.ratbrew.com.

Family-owned winery, leader in Northeast Ohio

In northeast Ohio's wine world, there are a couple names that are known to most visitors even before visiting - though to a first time visitor, Debevc might not be one of those names. However, Debonné Vineyards (owned and run by the Debevc family) is definitely a leader within our small but growing niche in the country. This family oriented winery provides structure and value to the local community with their long established vineyards and expansive wine list, community events, and innovation within the industry.

With vineyards dating back to pre-Prohibition days in 1916, Debonné got it's official start in March of 1972. Tony Debevc, Sr. and son Anthony began the business after realizing the potential for French-American hybrids in the Grand River Valley growing region. Expanding plantings from the original Concord, Niagara, and Catawba to include Seyval Blanc, Baco Noir, Chancellor and DeChaunac was just the beginning. Today the winery owns 127 acres of grapes also including Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Chambourcin and Vidal Blanc. Being a cool climate region, the Grand River Valley is a perfect host for these varieties.

With all of these different grapes to choose from, it's no surprise that the selection of wines and styles at Debonné is one of the largest in the region. With up to twenty four current choices the list continues to grow and evolve each year outside of the flagship wines.

Following are some notes in brief of a selection of wines.

Pinot Gris: full bodied, dry white; citrus zest and grapefruit aromas; creamy on the palate with floral and citrus flavors. Good to pair with food including fish, pork, and green vegetables.
Chardonnay (Reserve): golden color; butterscotch with light citrus on the nose, oak from barrel fermentation; subtle acidity and similar flavors make this wine rich and savory.
Grand Bélo: Bright and clear; fresh fruit including pear and yellow apple; soft acidity but ample citrus and apple flavors. Blend of Seyval and Vidal Blanc, very approachable and refreshing.
Other white wines: Chardonnay, Riesling, Vidal Blanc, Jazz White (blend)

Cab/Cab: blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah - deeper red color; dark fruit and vegetal aromas; dry and full bodied with nice tannins and flavors of oak, plum, and green pepper.
Classic Red: Medium bodied, dry red made from a blend of French-hybrids; cherry, plum, and dried fruit characteristics with soft tannins.
Grand Dolína: Bright red in color; aromas and flavors of cherry, strawberry, and cranberry; off-dry with light tannin and acidity.
Other red wines: Pinot Noir/Syrah, Merlot, Chambourcin, Harmony (blend), a Cab (blend)

Riesling Reserve: Clear and golden in color; aromas of stone fruit and floral; 3 percent residual sugar gives this wine some sweetness and compliments the peach, apricot, and minerality.
Ice Wine: a rich dessert wine with notes of honey, floral, and citrus; nice acidity balances the sweetness so it isn't overwhelming.
Other semi-sweet to sweet wines: Delaware, River Blush, River Rouge, River Blanc, Pink Catawba, Classic Rosé, Razzberry Riesling

With so many options you could spend an afternoon simply tasting through the wines available. However, Debonné also offers a variety of menu items year round.

Additionally the winery is host to numerous events. Annually the hot air balloon rally, classic car show, and ice wine festival draw crowds from Ohio and beyond. Debonné also works with other local wineries to host progressive dinners.

Fostering a sense of innovation and creativity the winery also offers a full micro-brewery, CellarRats Brewery. Also a host of unique blends of wine will be offered in the coming vintages. Still a family venture Tony Debevc is current President, his father having retired and mother acting as Treasurer. Mr. Debevc's wife, Beth, is Secretary and runs retail sales. Their son, another Tony, is part of the trio that founded Cellar Rats Brewery with wine maker Ed Trebets and assistant wine maker/brewer Brian Burns.

Debonné Vineyars is located at 7743 Doty Road, Madison, Ohio 44057. You can contact the winery by phone at (440) 466-3485or via their website, www.debonne.com. Winery hours are Monday and Tuesday from 12-6pm, Wednesday and Friday from 12-11pm, Thursday and Saturday 12-8pm, and Sunday 1-6pm. You can get a bite to eat throughout the year, and in the summer The Grill is open for expanded dining options.

Community centric winery advocates good wine and good times

Sitting back under a large green umbrella with some friends, sunlight pouring around us, was how a tasting at Grand River Cellars began. A number of other customers were enjoying the sunny afternoon on the expansive patio attached to the winery, set back from Route 528 amidst a grove of trees. Inside a large dining room, comfy seating surrounding a custom built fireplace, and a wrap-around tasting bar signal that the experience at this winery is definitely focused around the atmosphere.

Grand River Cellars was established as the Grand River Wine Co. in 1976, owned and operated by Bill and Carol Worthy. For over twenty years the winery built and established a reputation for producing classic varietals. A change of ownership occurred in 1998, creating Claire's Grand River Winery, and a short seven years later the winery was transferred to the current ownership. Tony Debevc, owner of Debonné Vineyards, took over production with wine maker Ed Trebets, greatly increasing the quality which had lapsed since the Worthy's sold the business. Cindy Lindberg, psychologist from Mayfield Schools, oversees the winery's operations.

It should be noted that regardless of the connection with Debonné Vineyards, Grand River offers a diverse and unique wine menu to visitors. Additionally, the winery offers a full lunch and dinner menu, as well as live music every weekend. Wines include a selection of reds and whites that range from cool climate dry styles to fruity and recognizable native varieties. Following is a brief selection of some of the wines we sampled.

2006 Grand River Valley Pinot Grigio: full bodied white with citrus and pear characteristics; grapefruit, lemon, and apple on the nose, paired up with the artichoke asiago appetizer this is a great food wine.
2007 Grand River Valley Riesling: light, and fruity - this is certainly a Riesling made in a drier style with crisp green apple on the nose and palate; refreshing acidity makes it a wonderful bottle to sip on a hot summer day.
Other white wines: GRV Chardonnay ('07), Austin's White (blend)

Austin's Red: medium bodied blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah; Soft tanning and full fruit characteristics make this wine very approachable; cherry, raspberry, and subtle oak are perfectly paired with a hearty meal or your favorite chocolate dessert.
American Merlot: toasted oak, tobacco, and plum on the nose; a dry, medium plus bodied wine with black fruit on the palate round this wine out with a nice finish.
Other red wines: Stonewood Red (blend)

Stonewood Blush: a fruity blend of Riesling, Seyval Blanc, and DeChaunac; semi-sweet wine with citrus, raspberry, and strawberry.
Other sweet wines: Stonewood White Fox (Niagara), Stonewood Wine Hound Red (Concord), 2006 GRV Vidal Blanc Ice Wine

In addition to wines for all tastes, Grand River Cellars is deeply involved in serving the community at large. Lindberg, who is a member of the Madison/Perry chamber of commerce, also organizes and participates in local fund raisers, charities, and advocacy organizations. There are even two wines dedicated to raising money towards finding a cure for Autism - Austin's Red and Austin's White. Proceeds are given to the North East Ohio Autism Group. Lindberg is serious about community involvement, and supporting the local business, and hopes that customers can "come out and enjoy themselves, and forget about their daily worries."

The winery will be soon introducing a red Zinfandel, and also the newest release of last year's very popular American Merlot Reserve. These will definitely be of interest to wine drinkers who enjoy full bodied, rich reds.

Grand River Cellars is located at 5750 South Madison Road (SR 528), Madison, Ohio 44057. You can contact the winery by phone at (440) 298-9839 or via their website, grandrivercellars.com. Winery and restaurant hours are Wednesday and Thursday from 12-8pm, Friday and Saturday 12-11pm, and Sunday 1-8pm. Over the summer the winery plans to expand their hours on Monday and Tuesday for wine and appetizers.


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Author's note: as full disclosure, please note that I am employed by Grand River Cellars, However my review is based on my personal tasting notes, and this connection bears no influence on the writing of this article.

Boutique winery produces saintly vintages

Turning down the drive to St. Joseph Vineyard in Thompson, you might think you've mistakenly intruded on some one's private residence. In fact, while not intruding, the cozy tasting room for this boutique winery is located behind the home of owners Art and Doreen Pietrzyk. Follow the gravel drive all the way to the back and you'll be rewarded with some amazing wines.

Art and Doreen, an engineer and accountant by trade respectively, opened their doors to the public in 1997, ten years after purchasing and tending to their private vineyard. The Pietrzyk's take great pride in their product and have put many years into developing the necessary skills and technique to craft their estate-grown wines. Having worked for a local wine producer, taking courses at Ohio State University, and conducting extensive research the couple were encouraged to start their business.

Our visit to St. Joseph was on a busy, sunny Saturday afternoon, but even amidst all the bustling Doreen was happy to take the time to speak with me about the wines. Christina, the wife of one of the winemakers, helped with our samples and provided helpful insight on the individual varietals and styles. The personal attention for every visitor who came through while we were there really spoke to their passion for wine and sharing it with others. Though St. Joseph's facility is not as large as some of the other well-known area wineries, there is a strong sense of welcome, and the added attention to the wines definitely shows through.

Currently with sixteen wines (8 whites, 6 reds, and 2 dessert wines) there is a wide range of options to choose from. Quantities of some bottles are limited, so if there's something you absolutely love I'd recommend getting it - last year I really enjoyed the Gewurztraminer, but now it is out of stock. From the full tasting, here are several of my favorites:

2006 Sauvignon Blanc: aromatic with fruit and floral notes; dry white with good acidity and soft flavors of citrus and fresh herbs.

2006 Chardonnay: oak and yellow apple on the nose; full bodied white with lime notes and refreshing acidity.

2007 Riesling: tropical fruit and apple aromas; crisp and tart green apple, pineapple, and lemon, just a touch of residual sugar.

Other white wines: Fumé Blanc, Chardonnay ('07), Viognier, Pinot Grigio, and Vidal Blanc

2007 Reserve Pinot Noir: old-world with olive, black cherry, and earth in the nose; soft oak, cherry, and smoke with gentle tannin and lively acidity.

St. Joseph Noir (12+1): proprietary blend, light oak and fruit on the nose; flavors of raisin, plum, chocolate, and spice. Sourced from newly acquired Pinot Vista vineyard.

St. Joseph Noir (Sangiovese): spicy nose combining black pepper with red fruit; long lasting acidity, good tannin structure, red fruit and spice on the palate.

Other red wines: Pinot Noir Select ('07), Shiraz, and Merlot

Vidal Blanc Ice Wine: honeysuckle aromas with citrus; flavors of bergamot orange and honey with a pleasant acid level.

Cabernet Franc Ice Wine: A unique wine well-made in the area; aromas of dried fruit; raisin, prune, tart cherry, and citrus.

Every wine produced at St. Joseph shows a well-based knowledge of wine making and also merits the pride that Art and Doreen take in their work. With many inspirations from old world France and Italy the end-product takes advantage of the Grand River Valley's unique micro-climate. Both agree that "good wine starts in the vineyard," which is why they put so much time and effort into their vines. You can always taste good quality.

Doreen encourages visitors to "come out and see the vineyards and taste the quality of wine we're producing." As for Ohio wine she insists that the "quality has improved one hindered per cent" over the years, and new wine-lovers or those who may have dismissed Ohio wines in the past alike will hopefully be surprised. St. Joseph in particular is beginning to experiment with other Italian varietals which should prove for exciting wines given their already very good Sangiovese.

St. Joseph Vineyard is located at 6060 Madison Road (SR 528), Thompson, Ohio 44086. You can contact the winery by phone at (440) 298-3709 or via their website, saintjosephvineyard.com. Tasting room hours are Friday from 5-7pm and Saturday 1-7pm, or at other times by appointment.

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Wineries of NE Ohio

Welcome to oe•no•phile's first special feature. Here you'll find in depth profiles of a number of the wineries located in northeast Ohio. These profiles are meant to give you a better look at the wines and those who make them in and around the Grand River Valley AVA. Please leave your thoughts and comments about your experience with the individual wineries. Cheers!

St. Joseph Vineyards
Grand River Cellars
Debonné Vineyards

Special: Local Micro-brew - Cellar Rats Brewery

Coming Soon

Ferrante Winery
Laleure Vineyards
Laurello Vineyards
Maple Ridge Vineyard
Old Firehouse Winery
South River Vineyard